| Back in our home port of Poulsbo, Washington, in the USA, we have a friend named Paul who loves machines. He can operate anything from a backhoe to the largest and most complicated road paving machine. His home is populated by old steam engines, a pet Cadillac, his yellow showplace Corvette convertible, the occasional Harley Davidson motorcycle, Civil War-era air compressors, you name it. Leaning under a tree in his front yard is an amazing antique gasoline-powered jackhammer. In operation, this unit was designed to generate an induction coil electrical charge on the downstroke, which is timed to ignite the gasoline vapors in the compression chamber and send the machine and operator skyward for the next compression/induction cycle. You have to keep your balance all the while, of course. It is not unlike riding some fossil-fuel powered pogo stick! And it helps to be vigorous, well-coordinated, muscular, and of substantial body mass. Paul meets all of these requirements and it is a truly amazing sight to see him bouncing up and down on this contraption. Oh yes, there is no muffler for the thing, . . . that adds to the overall ambience. Paul is quite proud of it, because Paul really loves machines. It is for Paul that we include the next photos. | |
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Don and Theresa have been our friends ever since we met them coming down the coast. They are from Bellingham, Washington and have lived aboard Tortuga for several years prior to beginning this cruise. Tortuga was built in Yohohama, Japan in 1964 at the Okotomoto Bros. Shipyard. Her mahogany planks are bronze fastened to keiyoki wood frames. She is the a one-of-a kind of the 1929 William Atkin "Thistle" design. The "Thistle" is a flush decked (no deckhouse) version of Atkin's "Eric" design. |
![]() Tortuga's Mitsubishi diesel. |
Tortuga at anchor in La Paz, BCS |
![]() Don and Theresa aboard Tortuga. Theresa has the nicest smile in the world, shown here at only about one quarter wattage. Tortuga is a gaff-rigged William Atkin cutter. She measures 32' LOD, 40' LOA, 11' beam, and 5' draft. |
| Our passage to Mazatlan began January 28th after a morning flail looking for a new engine fanbelt to replace one which had split up one side. Neil sez "Never leave on a trip with spare parts you have not tested in place before storing them!" The spare fanbelt he bought from Pep Boys in San Diego "by the cross reference numbers" turned out to be far too big. We motored as far as Ballandra Bay for the afternoon and spent about a half hour plowing furrows in the bottom of that bay before we could get our 45 pound CQR to set. We had a rather bumpy night due to a southwesterly wind shift, so we were up quite early and out of there in 18 knots of wind. We had a nice ride through the San Lorenzo Channel after we turned the corner of the bay and headed west. We were able to sail most of the way down to Bahia de los Muertos where we spent the night and all of the next day just resting. | |
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We left Muertos at 1800 on what we thought was going to be a pretty easy crossing, . . . after all, our broad reach return from San Carlos on New Year's Eve was so easy! Not to be. It was rough. Chubasco weather radio forecast northerly winds10 to 20 knots. It seldom dropped below 20 knots apparent over the decks. The seas were coming broadside on the port beam and kept us constantly wet and would sometimes hit the hull and dodger with a resounding smack. It is hard to get a good "big wave" photo with a digital camera because the timing is so slow, but we really appreciated the way Active Light kept raising her pretty transom to meet them. After a while you just learn to trust your boat. |
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So we have concocted a new measure of "How Rough It Was". No, not to be measured by how many times someone threw up, nor by how little sleep the captain got, how big the waves, nor how strong the wind. We use a much less subjective, tightly-controlled scientific measure, . . . the "dead squid on deck the next morning count". "How rough was it?" It was an twenty-one squid passage! That's how many of the poor inky, messy little octopeds we cleaned off the decks. On the second night of our passage we invented a new method of dealing with the wet watch-keeping. We put in the hatch board, closed the sliding hatch and sat down below, napping on the leeward bunk. We set our wristwatches to alarm every 11 minutes (that's how long it takes for a container ship to travel from 5.5 nm out of sight over the forward horizon to run you down at about 30 knots convergence speed). We would then get up and turn on the radar (72 seconds to warm up), turn off the red back-lit instrument lights in the cockpit, slide back the main hatch and stand up to have a good 360 degree look-around. Then we would turn the instrument lights on, note the compass course, wind and boat speed and water depth (usually off the meters scale), and reclose the hatch. |
![]() Poor dead squid washed aboard during the sloppy night. |
| By that time the radar would be warmed up and we would have a nice 6, 12 and 24 nm radius look-see. We'd turn off the radar and reset the wristwatch and go back to a not totally unpleasant catnap. The whole process took about 15 minutes, so by the time you did that eight times, it was your turn to be vertical and warm in the bunk. About 0200 this night, some fool passed us two miles off our port beam on a westerly course. He showed up really strongly on the radar but did not show a single light, nor would he (she?) respond to a VHF hail in English or Spanish. We have since been told that this boat could be the Mexican Navy on patrol. We hove to off the harbor entrance to Marina Mazatlan before dawn and waited for the light. At dawn we were guided through the narrow entrance channel by a fellow named Curt who was just out for a morning row in his dory. | |
| After getting settled in our berth, we began a memorable section of our lives in which we alternatively hosted three groups of family and friends. The first of these to arrive was Nancy's son, Ron Gillespie. We toured the central market and old town, ate great steaks, cruised the beach in the tourist zone, and went out fishing aboard Active Light. It was such a happy time to see him, he is a good person to be around. Ron works at Immunex in Seattle and has turned out to be such a fine young man. He is a very proficient SCUBA diver and is going to Fiji in April for an extended dive there. We confess to being terribly proud of him. | |
![]() Ron fishing from Active Light behind Isla Venado (Deer Island) about four miles south of Marina Mazatlan. Like Ron said, "We got skunked!". Right photo, Ron is either looking at the sand sculptures or checking out the bikini-ware on one of the tourist beaches in Mazatlan. |
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| Then Nancy's Uncle George and his lovely wife Sharron showed up. By this time we had a week's practice at being tour guides in Mazatlan, so we had a really good time. We did the old market tour and cathedral again, ate more great steaks, had a long walk along the malecon (boardwalk) where all the Mexican families take their kids out for a Sunday stroll, and we sometimes just left George and Sharron alone so they could soak up some sun in the condo. | |
![]() George and Neil "ham it up" in front of the hog's heads in the butcher section of the Mercado Central. Right, George and Sharron show off four good-looking legs by one of the vegetable vendor's stall. Take a look at those tomatoes! |
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![]() One of the neat things about Mexican people is they seem to have more appreciation for the artistic and humanitarian side of life than we industrious gringos do. One manifestation of this is that Mexican cities have many more parks and monuments than you will find in the USA. Here George and Sharron pose in front of the "Continuity of Life" monument. Right photo, Nancy's Uncle George just couldn't keep his hands off that mermaid. We will not repeat George's witty quip. |
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| The last group to visit us was two couples who are some of our very best friends; Larry and Sue Stine, Sonny and Sharon Shope. They are from our home town and members of our Louie Louie Yacht Club as well. (Note to our Louie friends: The LLYC burgee is proudly flying and has been flying all down the West Coast and Mexico. We are still looking for that perfect photo. Neil takes his "mission" from the Commodores Group quite seriously.) | |
Las
Tres Amigas pose in front of a sunset from the terrace of our
condo in Torres Mazatlan. Right: a pretty happy crew aboard Active
Light about eight miles west of Mazatlan. Who forgot
the sun block? |
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![]() Dinner at El Shrimp Bucket. The coconut shrimp platter was very, very good. The margaritas were big and quite strong, . . .right, Sue? Right photo, inside the cathedral in old central Mazatlan. |
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We ate out, went sailing, shopped 'till the guys dropped (women seem to have additional adrenalin glands that kick in when shopping at boutiques and beach coaming), we yakked endlessly about who had done what back home, we walked and walked and walked and did a lot of sight-seeing in the old downtown area. Sue bought some very nice Mexican silver. It was a sad to finally say goodbye to these friends and there were abundant tears all around. We were depressed and subdued for about a week afterwards. We confess to having our first thoughts like "Do we really want to be here doing this? Wouldn't we rather be with our friends back home?". So this is where we break this letter off. We are in slip 3-33, on the "water but no power" dock at Marina Mazatlan. We have begun the tedious process of recaulking Active Light's decks. That work is going much slower than anticipated, so we will probably be here well into April, but that tale will have to wait until the next letter. We apologize now for not answering email more promptly. It is now March 3rd, 2001 and we have not been on the Internet for over a month, since we posted the last letter in La Paz. That's just the way it works out when you are cruising. We will try to do better in the future, but who knows. Hey, we're retired! Take care and thank you all for your love and support. The next letter will not be so long in coming and we will tell you more about the repairs and Mazatlan. We are planning a trip to some small mountain towns. |
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Nancy and Neil S/V Active Light Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico |
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